I want to replace my digital thermostat, which digital thermostat is best for me?
You have a number of options open to you. The first thing you need to do is check the wiring you currently have to the old thermostat. Our digital thermostats have volt free contacts and this means that we can switch anything from 12-240v. If you have three wires (not including earth) then you are switching 240v and the connection will therefore be live and neutral to power our thermostat and a third being the switch wire to the appliance. We call this "mains switching" If you have 4 wires at the thermostat you have a "control circuit" system, basically this means that the signal to the appliance is low voltage. Assuming you have at least three wires, our digital thermostats are compatible with your system. You should now decide whether you want a standard thermostat or a programmable thermostat. We would always recommend the programmable thermostat type because you can set different levels of temperature throughout the weekday/weekend matching the lifestyle of the occupants of the building. On the standard digital thermostat, the same temperature is maintained whenever the time-clock is active.
Ok, I want to go for the programmable thermostat type but I already have a time-clock which takes care of the heating and hot water. What should I do?
No problem. You will probably have a "constant" facility on your existing time-clock. You would enable constant and let our Heatmiser PRT (programmable thermostat) take care of the heating. The Heatmiser PRT allows you to program 4 different levels of temperature for the weekday and 4 different for the weekend. Think of these settings as "wake, leave to go to work, return home, and sleep"
I have seen the PRT/HW. Would this give me control of the heating and hot water from one point?
Yes that exactly right. However on the PRT/HW you will require more wires at the thermostat. Assuming you are switching 240v you will need another 2 wires, a switch wire for the heating and a switch wire for the hot water. The PRT/HW is the ideal choice for new installations when you can run any number of wires to the thermostat. It removes the need to have seperate time-clock and thermostat controls.
I see you offer Low Voltage Thermostats, why would I select them
A number of reasons. Our -N products (-N = low voltage) provided communication facility a facility not provided on the 240v versions. This means you can connect our -N thermostats to our master keypad, MC1, our Telephone Remote System, TR1 and our underfloor heating control, UH1. As these thermostats are powered by 12v, they can be installed in environments not suitable for mains appliances.
The thermostats are "flush mounting", so how does it measure the temperature?
The thermistor (the device that measures the temperature) is located on the bottom edge of the thermostat case pointing towards the floor.
I am just installing underfloor heating, what can you offer me?
Our Heatmiser UH1 has been designed to give control of up to 8 underfloor heating circuits and 1 hot water cylinder. In addition, the system can give control of 1 conventional heating circuit for upstairs heating for example. The UH1 takes care of all switching and is therefore installed near the manifold. The UH1 has been designed to work with the -N thermostats and therefore provides power to them. This means that the wiring to the thermostats is low voltage.
So how many wires do I need to run to the thermostats when using the UH1?
It depends on whether you want to use the communication facilities on the thermostats. Do you want to use our keypad allowing you to program up to 16 thermostats centrally ? Do you want to connect to the thermostats via telephone? If you do, then you need 6 wires for the PRT-N and 8 for the PRT/HW-N. If you dont, then you dont need the 2 wires for the communications.
How do install the Heatmiser thermostats?
All of our current thermostats our flush mounting, this means most of the unit is hidden in the wall. Depending on the wall structure you are mounting our thermostat to you will need either a metal or plastic back-box. We recommend a back-box with a depth of 35mm to allow the installer plenty of room for cable entry. Once you have sunk the back-box in the wall you then split the Heatmiser thermostat in half using the screwdriver slots located at the bottom. When you have the thermostat in two halfs, you can then connect the cables in the correct terminals. You should then screw the back plate of the thermostat to the back box you have sunk in the wall. Finally, you can plug the ribbon cable into the front part of the thermostat and clip it into place.
So when its intalled, what is the final depth?
Only 13mm, so it really is a slim design
I see you have a remote control feature, is this the same as a wireless thermostat?
No, the remote facility means from our Heatmiser RM1 you can increase or decrease the temperature and additionally on the PRT/HW you can override the hot water for a number of hours. The remote can be used on any number of thermostats and works in line of sight.
Does the back-light operate constantly?
No, the back-light operates as soon as you press a key and for 30 seconds after the last key press. We are unable to make the back light active constantly as this would reduce the life of the LCD.
I have just received thermostats with the underfloor heating system but I much prefer your design. Are your thermostats compatible with other systems?
Its fairly safe to say we have an option open to you. We would suggest you contact us in order to discuss the best solution for you. Give us a call on 01254 776343.
I am an overseas customer wanting to purchase your product, I have an EU Vat number and so therefore shouldnt pay VAT. There is no option on your site not to pay VAT. Can you help?
We are currently changing the design of our website and so will very shortly have the facility for EU customers to enter their VAT number. In the meantime, you can order by fax 00441254 704143 or you can order securely via our Live Help system.
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